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Petra Jordan

So my second day in Jordan,  I was awoken at 6am by the hotel reception – I had asked them to wake me at 6am. Ughhh I never get up this early not for work or anyone, but I’ve wanted to see Petra and The Treasury since I saw Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade as a child.

I promptly packed my gear, got dressed closed the door to my room at Palace Hotel (which is ok by backpacker middle east standards, but nothing spectacular) and rushed out the door. On the street it took me a whole 5 mins to flag a cab.

He already had someone in the cab so I didn’t ask about fare (I should have though!) and as we drive he asked me where I want to go. I said Jett bus station because this is where a bus apparently leaves at 6:30 am for Petra. He tells me the bus doesn’t go to Petra and that I need to go to another station. I said my lonely planet guide says this is correct and I am vary about cab drivers such as this, they try and befriend you saying they are doing you a favor, but in reality he’s trying to take you somewhere he can get a cut or commission.

Arriving at JETT bus station in Amman the cab driver insists that this is not the right place to go. He says, “ok, you go inside ask about Petra bus if he says no bus is running come back out and I’ll take you to the right place”. I get out and am about to grab my bag he says “it’s ok I’ll wait here for you, leave your bag”. This is where I was supposed to grab the bag hand him some cash and tell him thanks but no thanks. I didn’t do this though and took his word.

I managed to get a ticket no problems, so quickly I rushed back out hoping he was still there with my bag and hadn’t driven off. Luckily he was, I opened the door and told him I got my ticket. He looked a little disappointed, I looked at the meter which is in fills! (this is confusing if your new to Jordan) and not dinar’s. He said you don’t know how to read this meter, it read something like 1825 which is 1 dinar and 825 fills.  I took out some notes and coins in my hands and gave him 1 dinar and he took another dinar in coins plus gave himslf a small tip of a few cents, I realised later he gave himself a tip, but it was petty cash and I didn’t mind. He then proceeded to tell me good bye in an angrish fashion, perhaps because he hadn’t been able to exploit me like he had hoped?

At the station I bumped into 2 Danish fellows I saw the night before at the Palace Hotel. 1 told me he was studying Arabic and his friend was traveling with him for a bit. We chatted on the bus which took about 3-4 hours.

When we got to Petra we headed for our respective hostels, the Dane’s and I shared a cab and parted our ways. I checked in my gear at Valentine Inn – a great place to stay by the way. The Polish woman at the desk is a bit of fun and the view from the tent and buffet dinner are awesome considering the price.

So I’m walking down to Petra and a Jordanian shop owner invites me to join him on the porch as I walk past his shop. His friend and him are chatting and he offers me some tea. Under normal circumstances I would say no, but he seemed sincere, without going into too much detail I wish I kept walking now. He turned out to be pretty weird when I saw him the following day (I left something at his shop by accident).

Jordanian’s especially Bedouin people are very kind and genuine from my experience. Unfortunately I had 1 or 2 weird people also (as you do traveling anywhere on your own I guess) and this shop keeper happened to be 1 of them.

Entry fee to Petra is 35 dinar or close to 35 euro which is pretty expensive, but it was a 2 day pass.  Anyway when I finally arrived at Petra I was offered a horse to ride, but I refused and said I wanted to walk, how far could it be right? I was persued by a Jordanian on a horse who wanted to swap bracelets, I had a couple of cheap ones I bought in Thailand on my arm that took his fancy, so I swapped him for 1 of his bracelets that said “Adopt a wild one!” and was wildly fluroscent in colour.

He seemed pretty chuffed with is new acquisition and we chatted as we walked towards Petra (he was on his hight horse ;0)). Departing ways at the main entry to Petra I continued on my own by foot. You walk through what they call a siq which is basically a cavern with his cliff formations on each side. Its filled with noisy tourists taking photos and horses come up and down carting tourists who cannot walk anymore or wish not to.

Then all of a sudden you get a glimpse of the Treasury of Petra. I recall stopping for a second to verify it. Nobody was with me at the time so I was kinda taken a back and had nobody to reflect to and say, “hey, isn’t this something”. I asked a fellow tourist to snap a photo of me and he obliged. I would repeat the same request several times over the next couple of weeks since I was doing so much solo travel, nobody ever says no.

I pressed on moving out toward the Treasury, you reach an open clearing and there it is, it really is amazing. Much more amazing than I expected. I think its the intricate detail and the fact that its so tall. To think it was built before Christ, yet with all our technology today it still amazes people when they see it. I took several shots in the area and explored several small caves and cut outs in the rocks around it before pressing on.

There’s so much to see in Petra you really need 2 days to do it. Actually that was what I did, I spent the next couple of hours on my own before heading to the Monastry the 2nd great site in Petra. On my way up the hill I bumped into the Danes once again and we continued to chat where we left off last. On our way we encountered several Bedouins selling various objects, much the same at each store with the same sales pitch. If you bought 1 item from everyone you would not be able to carry it all and you would be broke too.

Finally reaching the Monastry its hard to know what’s more impressive the Treasury or the Monastry. Both are superb looking and very tall. Although 1 appears slightly bigger than the other. Snapping a few shots we head for the hills behind to get a better view.

A single tent is perched at the top of the hill and contains a couple of friendly Bedouins who welcome us and offer us tea. The view from up here was worth the extra effort and leg work. Its simply amazing and I can’t help but think I could be in work right now behind a desk or I could be here. I assume you know where I’d rather be! We stayed for a couple of hours before heading back the the Treasury.

We arrived back in time for sunset at the Treasury which is pretty amazing and I grabbed some additional shots. We all walked back toward the hostel’s we were staying at and grabbed a bite to each at a local restaurant. Here’s a word of warning about Jordan the cuisine is not that great. In the whole 7 days I was there I got pretty tired of the food very quickly. Petra does not have many great places to each either, so the Valentine Hostel is not a bad place to stay with breakfast and dinner provided for a small additional fee.

In the evening I met a German guy and an American girl at the Valentine Inn. I didn’t say up for too long though as I was pretty tired from the early start and long day of walking around Petra in the October time heat.

Amman, Jordan

Traveling from Dublin to Amman should theorectically be easy, problem is I had a 5 hour wait between flights. So the 9hr flight really took a full day to complete. I had decided to have a driver pick me up from Amman airport and drop me at the hostel rather than try to use public transport or find something at the airport.

I had read before hand that taxi drivers can sometimes try and take advantage of tourists on pricing, which is pretty much the same for all countries and not specific to Jordan. Given that I arrived 3:00am local time I think I made the right decision. After going through customs, obtaining a visa for which I didn’t need additional spare passport photos afterall and only cost 10JD I was tired and didn’t want to have to work out how to use public transport and or buses to find my way to the city center.

The staff at the hotel “palace hotel” in downtown Amman have been quite helpful and very friendly, the hotel was recommended in Lonely planet, although the rooms are a bit run down and the shower / bathroom is a bit ordinary. I guess this is budget travel though, so I’m not expecting a Hilton Hotel.

Given it was October and quite warm, I decided I didn’t need to sleep under the covers and bottled water is a good idea to prevent feeling too hydrated through the night. I woke up the noisy sound of Amman traffic and bright sun light. Ahh quite a change from cloudy Dublin.

Breakfast was ok, but nothing flash and I met a nice guy who has been livng in Damascus for the past year. He gave me some advice on what to see in Amman. After breakfast I headed to the Roman Theatre not far from the Hostel. It was warm but not over bearing like I thought it would be, I guess last time I was in the middle-east I was in Dubai at the peak of summer or the tail end of peak season and it was pretty unbearable.

After checking out the Roman Theatre and asking some American’s to take 1 or 2 pictures of me, I climbed quite a few stairs to get to top of the theatre for a good view of the whole thing. I must say its quite impressive given how old it is and well preserved. There are a couple of rooms either side of the theatre that has display of tradtional clothing and jewellery etc. Worth a quick 5 mins look through, but nothing spectacular.

Next I climbed some more stairs in the heat, yay! I went and saw the Citadel which was quite pretty looking, but I wasn’t sure of its current purpose. I saw a cool looking little lizard, but couldn’t get a photograph in time before it scurried off.

I also took a good look at the Temple of Hercules, which was interesting to look at and quite old 160 AD its been dated. I also took a look at the archelogical museum near the citadel which had some of the dead sea scrolls on display. Certainly interesting but I couldn’t read a word.

Second Irish Webmaster Meet Up at the Harbour Master

Its taken a little while to get it organised but finally a date has been cemented or set I should say and it looks like our next “quarterly” irish webmaster meet up will be on Saturday the 9th of August 2008. Many people told us they missed the last one and would like to make it to this one so now is your chance.

Just a recap on the last meeting. Roughtly 20-25 people showed up and enjoyed a social night of Webmaster related talk. This is a good opportunity to meet others in your industry and make some industry contacts. Don’t be shy, you don’t need a tie. Come along and have some fun!

What: Irish Webmaster Meet Up

When: Saturday the 9th of August 2008

Where: Harbourmaster Dublin

Time: 7pm – 8pm (however this is still subject to change) – check back.

Here is the thread on the Irish Webmaster Forums so you can follow up on the progress and discussion. If your not a member yet. Sign up its a great little community.

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Gavin Doolan is an Adwords Qualified Individual, Search Engine Marketing Guru, Web Designer, Analytics Expert and all round nice guy! :).

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